My finds at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012

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London Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 12 collections has bee a real treat this season. With exploding creativity, stunning catwalk shows, beautiful clothes and mostly lovely London weather. Traditionally showcasing the best of British design, it consequently has a great emphasis on ready-to-wear labels that combine innovation with wearability.

And my favourites for Spring/ Summer 2012 are below:

Johnn Rocha initially confused me as it said his collection was inspired by the amazon jungle so somehow reluctantly I was expecting a parrot show, could not have been more wrong. These birds of paradise were so beautiful with their minimal colours and fascinating headwear.

The clothes backstage

The most inspiring of all however, was his genuine approachability and friendliness.

Jean-Pierre Braganza was tipped off last season to be someone to keep an eye on and he is definitely delivering.

Bora Aksu

I did not see his show but the clothes fresh after the Catwalk looked dreamy and exciting.

Simone Rocha, showed her third collection this season with a frail ethereal look, yet delivering a bold statement through surprising use of material such as plastic and lace.

Oh that shocking green dress in theory would never work but was absolutely a winner!

I saw TZEGOH first last season and absolutely love his capes, his beautiful thick fabrics and sculptured silhouette. And his use of natural fibered wool and cashmere make him sustainable too.

Amanda Wakeley's classy silks and drapes were accessorised with black leather belts and bangles to give them an edgy look.

And last but not least and very unusual for me an absolute candy store goes to the circus collection by Meadham Kirchhoff. An explosion of detailing and creativity, colour and a little bit of sarcasm. Oh and of course, the opportunity to sit within 50 cm of Vogue Editor cum Most-Powerful-Person-in-Fashion Anna Wintour.

And, no I did not slip in casually the lookbook of my newly launched edgy ethical fashion label Yvian. Not this time ;)

Anna Wintour's famous hair-do that seems to have a life of its own

Bulgarian model Silvia Dimitrova

Two designers I did not manage to see but would have loved to were Mary Katranzou, who seems to be winning all the young-talent awards.

And the Serbian-born, East-London-inspired and based Roksanda Ilincic.

London Fashion Week and the growth of the ethical fashion movement

One of Christopher Raeburn's typical parkas, made of recycled materials

The Esthethica exhibition at London Fashion Week showcases designers working in the area of ethical fashion. Established in 2006 it showed 13 brands that work in the field of sustainable, ethical and eco design. This means that in the various stages of the design and production process the effects on people and the environment are taken into account and measures to reduce the negative impact of the fashion industry taken. The attention of the consumer is drawn to new and innovative ways to redress the negative factors that the fashion industry. This is done in a variety of ways, by using natural dyes, eko-fabircs, recycling and up cycling, use of fair-trade cotton, etc.

This season Estethica showcased 108 designers from 19 countries from across the globe. The traditional brunch gathers everyone who is part of or interested in this growing movement for a glass of champagne.

Undoubtedly, the success everyone has been raving about this season is Christopher Raeburn. His typical parkas are unixes, colourful and fun. Raeburn is an innovator, who starts recycling old parachutes to re-interpret the traditional parka. His brand is produced in England and targets the growing number of customers who are looking for something different and fresh, which is also being ethically produced.

Among the most interesting collections we found Eva Zingoni, a Parisian brand which uses luxury fabrics that have remained unused by the big fashion houses. With their fine texture and clean silhouette, Eva's dresses create the magical sense of time-travel.

Eva Zingoni S/S 2012

Ada Zanditon is a British designer, who after working for Alexander McQueen, established her own label, which is recognisable by the structure of the silhouette, as well as the dresses with colour prints. Her inspiration for the season came from Greek goddesses, seahorses and the Carnival in Haiti. She pays special attention to ensure that the production of her clothes is according labour standards and there is no worker exploitation.

Ada Zanditon - "Poseisus" Spring Summer 2012

Лондонската седмица на модата и развитието на етичната мода

Ева Зингони, Парижка марка работеща в областта на етичната мода

Едно интересно събитие привлича все повече внимание на Лондонската седмица на модата. Това е изложбата “Естетика”, която представя дизайнери работещи в областта на етичната мода. Създадена през 2006 Есетика представя 13 марки, които работят в областта на устойчивия, етичен и еколкогичен дизайн. Това означава че в процеса си на работа взимат под внимание ефектът върху природата и хората на модната индустрия и се стремят да привлекат вниманието на потребителя към негативните ефекти на индустрията, както и към алтернативни подходи за ограничаване на тези негативни ефекти. Това става по много различни начини, като използването на естествени багрила, еко-платове, рециклиране на материали, използване на fair trade памук и т.н. Залагайки все повече на модерен дизайн, вече шеста година Естетика представя 108 дизайнери от 19 държави от цял свят на Лондонската Седмица на Модата.

На традиционния брънч се събират на чаша шампанско всички, които имат интерес към това най-бързо развиващо се модно течение. Тази годниа сред най-интересните колекции са тези на Ева Зингони, Парижка марка, която използва рециклирани луксозни платове, останали на големите френски дизайнери. С финните си материи и чист силует, роклите на Ева създават магическо усещане за пътуване във времето.

Ада Зандитон

Ада Зандитон е английска дизайнерка, която след като работи за Александър Маккуийн, създава собствена линия, която се отличава със структура на силуета и рокли с цветни щампи. Нейните вдъхновения за сезона са гръцките богини, морските кончета и карнавалът в Хаити. Тя отделя специално внимание на производството на дрехите, да няма експолатациа и да се спазват стандартите за работни условия.

Кристофър Рейбърн

Безусловно големият успех на сезона Пролет/Лято 2012 е Кристофър Рейбърн. Неговите типични дъждобрани и якета са унисекс, цветни и забавни. Рейбърн е иноватор, който започва като преработва стари парашути и с тях ре-интерпретира традиционния анорак. Целта му по-нататък е да започне да прави и дрехи, не само якета и да развие марката си, която се произвжда в Англия и е насочена към растящия брой клиенти които търсят нещо различно, което е и произведено етично.

Designers and Politics

Vivienne Westwood has always boldly expressed her political opinion through her fashion

Fashion is not an abstract concept, it is shaped and influenced by society and history. In this way even if it is not always realised it is influenced by politics as well. The collections are demure and dark in times of a recession and full-blown and dazzling in times of economic boom. A lot of designers chose to express their own political opinion through the clothes they make and that has given them a strong and distinguishing presence. Read more.

Trend Forecasting

Milan Bloomer

Trend forecasting is apparently a science ... well not really but almost. What and probably more importantly HOW it is being worn on the streets of the big metropolitan capitals of the world is sooner or later reflected in the work of designers across the globe. Vilislava Petrova works for WGSN, one of the leading trend forecasting companies and comments on the future tendencies of the coming five-ten years: the consumer is tired of all the information noise and will continue the interest in minimalism, fine tailoring and detailing. As the capitals of the new emerging economic powers (Beijing, Rio, Mumbai) grow, it is interesting how they will start setting the trends of the future of fashion.
Interview in Bulgarian.
Trendsetting sites:
Probably the most famous of them all: the Sartorialist
http://facehunter.blogspot.com
http://www.twistedlamb.com/
http://fashiongonerogue.com

Ethical Fashion and Politics

Amisha Jewellery 

Amisha Ghadiali designs beautiful jewellery and makes sure it is produced without causing harm to humans or the environment. She is part of a movement for ethical fashion that is becoming more and more influential.
Read the interview

My finds at London Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter 2011

Osman Autumn/ Winter 2011 Catwalk

From 18-22 February the fashion world descended on London to see the collections for Autumn/ Winter 2011.

My Fashion Week started with the catwalk show of Osman, an up and coming designer, whose lightness and texture moved me.

Alpine inspiration was palpable in the catwalk show that Meadham and Kirchhoff put on as an army of models marched down the catwalk.

Jean-Pierre Braganza was definitely someone who was tipped for success, unsurprisingly looking at the lightness of his dresses and the quality of the prints.

The presentations by Christian Blanken and Tim Soar were both a treat for the conceptual eye.


                                                                                                           Tim Soar uses the specialised fabric of military uniforms to create structure and strength.

There were an impressive number of ethical designers showing at the Estethica exhibition as well. It was East-London based label Dr. Noki who gathered a standing ovation this year. His NHS collection presented futuristic urban street wear from recycled fabrics.